Orchil Natural Dye

Shepherd Textiles Orchil Natural Dye contains dried lichens from the genus gyrophora, which grows on exposed rock faces. Gyrophora lichens were once known as “orchella weeds,” one of several varieties of lichen that produce a beautiful red and purple dye known as orchil. Although it is not lightfast, orchil has a luminous vibrance that sets it apart from other dyes.

The dyestuff is extracted by soaking the lichens in ammonia for several weeks, stirring several times a day to introduce fresh oxygen, until the solution changes color from black to a deep purple. We recommend using a ratio of 2:2:2, that is, two ounces of orchil, two cups of water, and two cups of ammonia*. Start by soaking the lichen in the water until it is softened; then, put it in a blender or shred it into smaller pieces by hand; put the water and shredded lichen into a glass jar; and mix in the two cups of ammonia. Seal and store this solution in a warm place, out of direct sunlight. Open the jar and stir vigorously three or four times a day for 2-3 weeks. After three weeks, start testing the solution by using a tablespoon of it to dye a tiny skein of yarn; when the color stops improving, the extraction is complete.

In our experience, 2 ounces of properly extracted orchil lichen should be enough to dye 4-6 ounces of wool or silk to a deep, intense fuchsia color. However, final results will depend on many factors, including the temperature at which the solution is kept, how often it is stirred, and how long the extraction goes on. Please note that orchil is not suitable for use on cotton.

Made in the USA from a blend of imported and domestic lichens.

*Caution: Ammonia is hazardous and flammable. Read your vendor’s MSDS before using. Keep orchil solution away from high heat and open flame. Avoid inhaling fumes when stirring the orchil; open the jar only in a well-ventilated space. Keep out of reach of children.